Long:170.28311 This route usually commences from the Bonney Glacier just above the small icefall but there is wide scope for variations especially from below the icefall. Start up the main gully on the left side of the north-west face, then stay right to climb the gully on the left of the large buttress. Chimney moves are the crux. … Dan Baker - Dec 6, 2005 4:47 pm - Voted 8/10 Untitled Comment. Cheval, West Ridge of Malte Brun, Mt Cook. Elev: 2036m, Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 New Zealand. Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at <60m length on ascent. Due to insufficient data, the value of the property cannot be estimated. Lat: -43.55298 The point to aim for when climbing the moraine wall (this will get you to the old Malte Brun hut site: Registration is quick and completely free. Step up to tiny roof, step right, then follow red rock keeping approx 10m right of grey corner. After crossing the broad expanse of the pass, descend either snow or, in late summer, rock and scree to the Beetham Valley. Continue up rock directly to the Cheval or follow the ledge which ramps to the right, arriving on the West Ridge about 60m west of the Cheval. Up prominent rock rib to the right of the gully on the North face to the from the Bonney Glacier. ... Nice. Steep and fun. Alpine Guides' Expeditions are guided climbing packages for NZ's most notable peaks: including Aoraki Mount Cook, Mount Tasman, and Mount Aspiring. See below for route from Beetham Valley. In the Malte Brun Range there are long climbs over generaly good rock and broken glaciers, Malte Brun(3155m) being the highest peak. Bivvy site (there are many others): 15 - 20 pitches Despite this most of the ridge is on snow and ice. First accent was done with bivy gear and the team descended down the Bonney Rib. The first complete ascent was done with rock shoes in optimal climbing conditions, switching to approach shoes at the apex of the West Ridge. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass. The peak was first ascended by the legendary Tom Fyfe in 1894. Together with Alan Silva we travelled to New Zealand in February 2012 to climb Malte Brun, New Zealand’s 6 th highest peak at 3196m. These packages are for a set number of days. Alpine Guides offers a 3-day guided mountaineering package that can get you to the summit. Easy scrambling to apex of West Ridge. At least one of the pillars on the north side of the lower ridge has been climbed, and provides excellent climbing (crux 16). The duration takes into account the length, difficulty, access … A winter and spring route involving M3 climbing. Continue up arete to large ledge, then follow right trending cracks up to belay ledge. Mt Tasman is … Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Long: 170.28782 This can make a quick descent route, but it is a natural funnel for rock fall and avalanches. His second son, Victor Adolphe Malte-Brun, was also a geographer.Today he is perhaps best remembered for coining the name for the geographic region Oceania (French Océanie) around 1812. Map H36 and I36 Grade 5 1500 metres One reasonably tough day of six or seven hours. What route did you climb on Aspiring? Route photo taken from summit of Rumdoodle in February 2015 with slightly more snow on the route than on the first complete ascent. The property last sold for $690,000 on 9 September 2014. Panoramic mountain photography occasionalclimber.co.nz. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Conrad Malte-Brun [needs Danish and French IPA] (12 August 1775 – 14 December 1826), born Malthe Conrad Bruun, and sometimes referred to simply as Malte-Brun, was a Dano-French geographer and journalist. The summit offers stunning views of the Aoraki Mount Cook massif and the lakes of the Mackenzie Region. An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. Take … Lat: -43.54864 Follow the ridge on generally good rock. From the Beetham Valley follow the stream up past the tributary from the main Beetham Glacier then turn up the next major gully descending from the Pass on the south side of a small ridge sticking out from the pass. BYO rap cord and expect to replace it completely. The West Ridge (NZ Grade 3), with its famous "cheval" section, is one of the finest alpine rock climbs in the range with rock that is extremely solid by New Zealand standards. The climb steepens and provides some difficulty before easing off where West Ridge is joined. Spring is generally the best time conditions and access wise. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. First ascent unknown. The Footstool 2,764 m The glaciated peak of the Footstool towers impressively above Mount Cook Village. Top of the access gully: The Malte Brun is an alpine rock peak, and at 3199 metres it is one of the highest mountains in the Southern Alps. Shispare N.E. The rock on the ridge is good and the climbing pleasantly interesting but nowhere difficult. Nice Photos. 11 Malte Brun Place, Papatoetoe, Auckland, 2025 is a Residential property built in 1965 with 3 bedrooms, 1 bathroom and 3 parking spaces. Malte Brun Expedition The highest peak in the Malte Brun range, and one of NZ's classic alpine rock summits. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass. The last 1/3 was quite chossy. Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 New Zealand. An enjoyable alternative, however, is to climb the beautiful rock rib from the col which separates the Malte Brun and Bonney Glaciers. The classic climb up Malte Brun is the west ridge, or its longer version, the full west ridge, visible on the left of the above picture. Climbers on the famous 'cheval' traverse of the West Ridge of Malte Brun This route is used regularly for descents but be sure to remember where to turn off the West Ridge in order to reach the head of the Malte Brun Glacier. Malte Brun is a fantastic alpine rock peak, standing out high on the mountain range named after it, east of the Main Divide. Full size version is only available to registered users Please Register as a New User or Login as Existing User to gain full access to all the photos on this site. Malte Brun is the highest peak in the Malte Brun Range, which lies between the Tasman and Murchison Glaciers within New Zealand's Southern Alps. The routes on the western side of Mt Malte Brun provide good rock climbing and can be gained either via the Turnbull Glacier, which joins the upper Bonney Glacier, or up the Malte Brun Glacier. Altough it has the most unstable weather It's still possible to climb big peaks well into the summer eg Aspiring/Malte Brun. From the Beetham Valley follow the stream up past the tributary from the main Beetham Glacier then turn up the next major gully descending from the Pass on the south side of a small ridge sticking out from the pass. An enjoyable climb for a sunny day. Rising as the highest summit in the group of peaks between the Murchison and Tasman glaciers, Malte Brun is one of the classic peaks of the Southern Alps of New Zealand. Thanks for posting them, I'm heading to NZ in Jan and Feb 06, Multe Brun is one that is on the tick-list. The climbing on these routes is exposed, but not too difficult. Face (7611 meters) difficult First Ascent in the Karakorum by Japanese climbers 2/3 of the route was on fantastic rock. Continue up 12m then cross left over grey corner onto new red rib. Hiking info, trail maps, and trip reports from Mount Hamilton (2,997 m) in New Zealand Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Follow weakness/ crack then head left to Arete. The 6-day package gives time to fly in, high on the Tasman Glacier, before descending to your bivouac site. Fyfe’s route ascends to the left of a shallow couloir in the centre of the face. Face (7611 m) Karakorum F/A + Malte Brun (NZ) S Face Ski + Summits in Nepal & Legends + Uluru Climbs Banned After 2019 Shispare N.E. The easiest route begins by cutting left from the head of the Malte Brun Glacier up one of a series of couloirs onto a small snowfield and then up a short rock face onto the ridge. Malte Brun is located directly east of Mt Cook (New Zealand’s highest peak), separated by the mighty Tasman glacier. Some existing anchors/ bollards in place at approx 25m intervals. In 1898, the Malte Brun Hut was built beside the Tasman Glacier. Climbing huts were first built in the central Southern Alps by the government for guided climbers.
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